Monday, December 30, 2019

Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Guirlandes c1982

Guirlandes by Carven, launched in 1982, is a fragrance that evokes a sense of nostalgia, softness, and youthful femininity. The name "Guirlandes" is derived from the French word "guirlandes", which translates to "garlands" in English. Pronounced "gweer-lahnd", the word brings to mind images of delicate, floral decorations often used to adorn celebrations, festivals, and special occasions. Garlands, typically made of flowers, leaves, or ribbons, are associated with beauty, festivity, and a sense of natural elegance. In the context of a fragrance, "Guirlandes" suggests a harmonious blend of florals and freshness, evoking an airy, delicate, and joyful aura that aligns with youthful femininity. It conjures images of spring gardens, light breezes, and soft, colorful blooms.

Launched in the early 1980s, Guirlandes arrived at a time when fashion and perfumery were evolving with the cultural changes of the period. The 1980s were a time of bold statements and self-expression, yet there was also a subtle trend toward more romantic and softer aesthetics, especially in fragrance. The era was known for its high-energy, often extravagant styles in fashion and design, but also saw a return to more natural and simple fragrances, as consumers sought balance after the heavy, opulent scents of the previous decade. Perfume trends in the 1980s were characterized by a greater variety of fragrances catering to different preferences, from rich floral bouquets to fresh and delicate compositions like Guirlandes.

For women of the time, Guirlandes was the perfect embodiment of youthful freshness and lightness. It was a fragrance designed for the young woman who sought an uncomplicated, fresh, and gentle scent that still conveyed sophistication. The fragrance was created by Jean Guichard of Robertet, a renowned perfumer known for his expertise in blending delicate, natural notes. Guirlandes was classified as a soft, fresh, fruity white flower fragrance, beginning with a fruity aldehydic top that felt sparkling and vibrant. The aldehydic notes added a clean, soapy quality that was fresh and bright, while the fruity elements—pineapple and raspberry—imparted a juicy, youthful sweetness.

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Variations by Carven c1971

Variations by Carven, launched in 1971, arrived at a time when women’s fashion and fragrance were embracing boldness, individuality, and a new kind of liberated femininity. The name “Variations” (pronounced vair-ee-AY-shuns), derived from the French and English word of the same spelling, evokes ideas of movement, contrast, and transformation. It suggests a theme of subtle changes on a central motif—like a musical composition evolving with each phrase, or a woman expressing different facets of herself throughout the day. Choosing such a name aligned with Carven’s elegant yet modern image, offering a fragrance that could speak to the multiplicity of the modern woman.

The word “variations” conjures imagery of shifting colors, changing moods, and evolving expressions—graceful yet dynamic. Emotionally, it resonates with the sense of variety and choice, echoing the spirit of early 1970s women who were asserting more autonomy in fashion, careers, and lifestyle. The 1970s marked a transitional period known for its eclecticism. From the structured elegance of the late 1960s to the earthier, more individualistic styles of the mid-70s, the era saw the rise of flared trousers, natural fabrics, and a back-to-nature sensibility that echoed in perfumery with the growing popularity of green, mossy, and earthy fragrances.

“Variations” as a scent title would have spoken to the woman who saw herself as multifaceted—neither wholly classic nor entirely modern, but rather, a blend of both. The fragrance’s classification as a green floral oriental with a chypre base positioned it within the sophisticated and slightly unconventional space. It began with a crisp green top—possibly galbanum or leafy aldehydes—moving into a heart of green florals, such as hyacinth, lily-of-the-valley, or narcissus, before settling into a mossy, mildly powdery base. The chypre structure—known for its contrast of fresh citrus, floral heart, and mossy, woody base—was a classic French perfume form, but the green interpretation gave it a modern edge that aligned well with the aesthetics of the time.

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Chasse Gardee by Carven c1950

Chasse Gardée by Carven: launched in 1950. Created by Yuri Gutsatz.

This third Carven perfume was released in September 1950 in Biarritz, on the occasion of a gala chaired by King Farouk of Egypt, in a very pleasing tumult of packs of dogs and hunting horns. This fragrance evokes the undergrowth and symbolizes the splendor of the hunt.


Vert et Blanc by Carven c1958

Vert et Blanc by Carven: launched in 1958. Expressly created for the Universal Exhibition in Brussels held in 1958. Vert et Blanc "green and white" in French, was Madame Carven's signature colors.


Robe d'Un Soir by Carven c1947

Robe d'Un Soir by Carven: launched in 1947. The name means "evening gown" in French.


Ma Griffe by Carven c1946

Ma Griffe by Carven: launched in 1946. Created by Jean Carles. The name means "My Signature" as well as "My Claw" in French. Undoubtedly, a pun on the name, as Madame Carven clawed her way to the top of the design world and left her mark with her revolutionary Ma Griffe perfume.